Amazing Annapurna Circuit Trek (Part 2)

The next morning we awoke to clear skies and warm temperatures! It was perfect hiking weather and we were immediately in better spirits.

Chame (8,890ft) to Upper Pisang (10,200ft) 10.5mi

As we left Chame we marveled at what a difference a day makes. The timing for clear weather was perfect as we were going to start hiking past the northern side of the Annapurna Range with stunning views.

The locals also got out their crops to dry in the sun, they knew the rainy weather was over.

And the Annapurna range started to come into view.

The region is known for a variety of apples, and there was a great spot for a morning break with apple cider and delicious pie at Agro Manag. Picture of us on the road next to the apple orchard (below).

After we got to our destination for the day, Upper Pisang, we trekked further up to a monastery with our guide, Karsing, for amazing views of Annapurna II.

They also have a massive prayer wheel that we turned for good fortune.

Upper Pisang (10,200ft) to Manang (11,300ft) (13.5mi)

The next day we hiked from Upper Pisang to Manang. It was spectacular with crystal clear blue sky and snow capped mountains everywhere. Our guide said, “This is the real Nepal.”

We took the higher (and more challenging) route of the two options to get the best views of the Annapurna range and surrounding countryside. The trail was steeper than anything we have ever hiked and the air was getting thin.

We took a break at a temple on the trail and saw someone attempting some electrical work. We could not watch.

The temple itself was interesting.

It was a long, steep, and challenging day but what a stunning place.

Manang (11,300 ft) – Rest and Acclimatization Day

To avoid altitude sickness the goal is to ascend slowly and let the body acclimatize, so two nights in Manang were part of the original itinerary. Unfortunately, Dave had started coming down with a head cold over the previous couple days and it became terrible in Manang. We added a third night for Dave to try to shake the cold.

As a result we got more time to explore Manang. They are trying to preserve some older buildings, but looks like it is a challenging effort.

They have some unconventional prayer wheels.

The views around town are spectacular.

It is an agricultural town where we saw people hard at work harvesting crops and moving goods (including propane) by donkey.

We visited a local doctor for cold relief in Manang but Dave took a turn for the worse. At that point the team (Karsing; our guide, Paul; owner of Discovery World Trekking, and we) decided that moving to even higher altitudes (the next night was supposed to be at 13,320ft) would not be wise given the difficulties Dave was having due to his cold. As frustrating and disappointing as it was, the only safe option we had was to call off the trek and move to a lower altitude. Manang is also the end of the road for 4WD vehicles, going further would mean hiking out. In the end we only completed 7 of our 16 trekking days, resulting in a “short circuit.”

We had an incredible experience over the few days we did hike and we want to come back someday to complete the route we had planned; Hike beyond Manang to Tilicho Lake (16,138 ft) and over Thorung La Pass (17,769 ft).

Manang (10,200ft) to Pokhara (2700ft)

Pokhara was our original end destination after the Annapurna trek, so we decided to go there from Manang. This was another incredibly rough drive of 120 miles over 10+ hours.

We (Dave, Diane, Karsing, and Nabin) took a local 4×4 for the first section from Manang to Besisahar. This jeep also transported local people who hopped in and out – usually having 7 people in the cab and several others hanging precariously on the back. They also made propane deliveries along the way. Diane and I shared the front seat, with one seatbelt for the two of us. We were squished while holding on to the grab bars almost the entire way due to the horrendously poor roads.

We changed to a tiny taxi (think smaller than a VW Rabbit) in Besisahar with Karsing and Nabin. The roads were not much better given the suspension of the small car. We were completely exhausted when we finally arrived at our hotel in Pokhara.

Rest and Recovery in Pokhara

Unfortunately, Diane caught Dave’s cold and Pokhara became a spot for both of us to rest and recover. It is a nasty head cold, and we are still slowly recovering. As disappointing as it is to not complete the Annapurna Circuit, it was the right call. And kudos to Discovery World Trekking for helping us through the whole process. We have now replanned October since we got to Pokhara early and have more time to explore some nearby towns. But more on that later…