Sao Jorge is the island where we stayed the longest. It is among the least populated of the islands (9,500 inhabitants) and has many interesting places to visit. We started by exploring in Velas, the largest “town” on Sao Jorge. It was very quiet, hardly anyone else there – you can see Dave standing on the empty main shopping street. We really enjoyed the patterns in the cobble in the Azores, and they had some fun ones in Velas. Their patron saint is St. George so the slaying of dragon motif is very common.
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Ponta dos Rosais
The western most point on Sao Jorge is Ponta dos Rosais. It is a spectacular viewpoint that has a precarious trail to get there. The cliffs are at least 600 feet high and the trail runs right along the edge (dense bushes make it the only option). We were in awe as we stood on the cliff looking at the stunning topography and azure sea. The picture of the abandon lighthouse was taken from an old whale lookout (Vigia da Baleia) that also has spectacular views.
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Hiking The North Coast
One of the more popular and beautiful hikes is from Serra do Topo to Fajã dos Cubres. The midway point of the hike takes you through Caldeira do Sto Cristo, a small community that is only accessible by ATV or hiking. Fajã is a term in Portuguese to describe landslides that have created a flat area by the coast where people live. Sao Jorge is so steep and rugged that there are several of these communities around the island. They are very remote and the roads and trails to them are narrow, steep, and have many switchbacks. The hydrangea were in full bloom as were several types of wildflowers. This scenery on this hike was spectacular. Equally impressive was the sound of thousands of songbirds serenading us as we hiked .
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Cheese: Big Wheel, Big Deal
We visited the eastern most part of the island and on the way back to our hotel we stopped at the cheese factory Finisterra – Cooperativa de Lacticínios do Topo for a tasting. Fortunately for us another group had scheduled a factory tour at that time so we got to tag along. They take their cheese seriously in Sao Jorge and age it different lengths of time for different tastes (1 month to a year). There is also an official certification process to ensure all producers on the island have similar quality. It was a very interesting and tasty visit.
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Natural Beauty
Sao Jorge was fun to explore. The blooming hydrangeas were everywhere, and the farmers plant them to mark the boundaries of their pastures. Mt Pico made for a picturesque backdrop.
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No Beach, No Problem
Since there are no swimmable sandy beaches in Sao Jorge the locals have established swimming spots all around the island. Some are manmade (mostly old harbors no longer in use). They usually have bathrooms, changing rooms and snack bar. The picture on the left is a natural swimming pool called Piscina Natural Simão Dias that requires a little bit of a hike to reach and was fun to explore.
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The Driving Fun Continues
There were many times we had to pass herds of cows on the roads; all that cheese starts from somewhere. The most challenging aspect was the steep, narrow, windy roads down to the coastal areas, often one car wide. We had to rent a manual transmission car that added to the excitement. We were thankful there weren’t that many people on the roads. When we did meet a driver coming the other way somehow it always worked out.
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Island Hopping Continues
Sao Jorge was lots of fun and we met some very interesting people along the way. We had some amazing meals (lots of fish and octopus) and stayed at a very comfortable hotel Quinta da Magnólia. Below is a dish we had a couple times, octopus cooked in a roof tile.
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We next flew to Terceira for our final stop in the Azores.
Your travels are amazing.
Thanks…we are having lots of fun!